Havelis’ as a traditional townhouse or manor house with historical and architectural significance, are huge mansions known for their beautifully crafted and designed intricate artwork. The word haveli is derived from the Arabic word “hawali”, meaning “partition” or “private space”, popularised during the Mughal era. Later, the haveli word was used generically to describe palatial mansions, manor houses, and townhouses. Rajasthan is home to some of the most beautiful havelis.
These colourful, magnificent and grand Rajasthani havelis bring the charm and grandeur of the bygone era. Sometimes spread over several acres of land; these havelis in Rajasthan were once owned by erstwhile rulers, wealthy merchants and jagirdars. Depicting the art and cultural heritage of the area, these colourful havelis can be seen across Jaipur to Jaisalmer and from Bikaner to Jodhpur. Tourists often plan their tour of Rajasthan, in a manner that helps them to get a glimpse of these grandiose mansions. From the Mughals to the wealthy Hindu merchants from the Shekhawati region, each haveli explicitly reflects the class and grandeur of its owner. Adorned by murals, paintings, and intricate artwork; these havelis are a storehouse of antique objects and memorabilia that were in use during the 17th and 18 centuries. 
Today many of the havelis have been refurbished into heritage hotels in Rajasthan in a way that helps maintain their vintage charm and décor and recreates the medieval ambiance; allowing tourists to enjoy a royal experience in a heritage retreat. One such building or group of buildings is the “Patwon ki Haveli”; a set of five (5) identical 18th-century havelis that are one of the biggest tourist attractions of Jaisalmer, Rajasthan. These five havelis located in a narrow lane of Jaisalmer facing the Jaisalmer Fort; near the Patwa complex of Jaisalmer, and can be easily reached using public or private transport. However, as the streets are narrow so going on foot to the havelis is best recommended. These havelis were built side by side for five brothers of the Patwa family.
This haveli complex belonged to one of the famous and wealthy textile merchants of the century, Guman Chand Patwa, the patriarch; who built these havelis as a gift to each of his five sons. The havelis are famous for their unique architectural elements like wooden ceilings, mud floors for controlling temperature inside the haveli, yellow sandstone carvings, and others. It took the construction workers almost 55 years to complete the first haveli. These havelis today act an important cultural museum, and hold a collection of handicrafts, textile items, silver jewellery, carpets, puppets, and others. While touring the havelis, a collection of attires with extensive mirror works is the most explored part of the museum, by tourists.
The mansions are known for their brown gateway and have walls adorned with exquisite mirror works and beautiful paintings. The ornate paintings on yellow sandstone, add a touch of grandeur to the cluster of five havelis. Due to their brocade trading reputation, the “Patwon Ki Haveli” was also known as the ‘Mansion of Brocade Merchants, based on the fervent trading characteristics of the owners. Locals say, the original owners who were silver and golden thread dealers, made most of their money through opium smuggling. After the 5 sons abandoned their hometown of Jaisalmer, legends say due to a curse; the caretakers took charge of the havelis eventually becoming the owners. One caretaker contacted Mr. Jeevanlalji Kothari, a wealthy merchant who was a native of Jaisalmer and like the Patwas had left Jaisalmer to explore better opportunities.
Mr. Kothari, to remain connected with his native place, decided to buy the first haveli and renamed it as the Kothari’s Patwa Haveli. This particular haveli is known as one of the finest, oldest, and largest havelis’ in Jaisalmer. Its’ interiors are highly inspired by Rajput, Mughal, and Victorian architecture. Its’ artistic pillars, traditional jharokhas, and intricately carved walls make it a perfect spot to spend a couple of days amidst the Rajasthani culture and untamed beauty. The walls of all 5 haveli were encrusted with stunning mirrorwork and beautiful paintings, which have only slightly lost their sheen due to abuse and encroachment. “Patwon Ki Haveli” is actually the first and the largest haveli to be constructed in Jaisalmer and 2nd in Rajasthan.
Currently, there is one haveli where guests can stay, while two others are under the authority of the Archaeological Survey of India or ASI, while the 4th one which is actually the 1st haveli, is known as “Kothari’s Patwa Haveli” and stands out most amongst the others. The arches and gateways of each haveli have an individual feature, that distinguishes each of the havelis from one another, each depicting a distinct style. Open from 9 am to 5 pm daily, the havelis, are known for their unique fresco and mural work. Even the jharokhas, arches, balconies, and entrance gates have intricate carvings, miniature designs, and paintings on the walls. The pillars and ceilings of the havelis have intricate and attractive carvings done on them by experts of the time, making these havelis a delight for architecture enthusiasts.
The havelis have over 60 balconies from where one can see the lanes of the Haveli complex. The windows with divisions/ jharokhas allow ample air supply to pass through. Entry fees are INR 100 for foreigners per person and INR for Indians per person. While still camera fees are INR 100, video camera fees are INR 200. As the haveli complex is big and it will take at least 3 to 4 hrs to go through all the 5 havelis, it is best to take the help of a guide for INR 100/200 depending on the size of the touring party. it may be noted that the 1st haveli was built in 1805 and the remaining 4 havelis were finished by 1860. A visit to the “Patwon Ki Haveli” is a never to be missed opportunity for tourists visiting Jaisalmer, Rajasthan.
