The annual Amarnath yatra is one of the most famous pilgrimage trips taken by devotees of Lord Shiva. Amarnath cave temple is located at the end of Lidder valley near Pahalgam. Organized every year in the month of July August by the government of Jammu and Kashmir, the 45 day yatra allows lakhs of Shiva devotees to visit the sacred cave temple that houses the massive snow structure created naturally and unmistakably resembles a Shivlinga. The Amarnath Cave Temple is considered one of the 12 Jyotirlingas throughout South Asia that are considered to have grown on their own. The yatra coincides with the Hindu holy month of Shraavana.
The cave considered to be one of the holiest shrines in Hinduism, is situated at a height of 12,756 feet above sea level and remains covered with snow for much of the year except for a short period of time in summer from June to August when the yatra is done, when a large number of devotees from India and all over the world make the arduous journey. The most auspicious time to take part in journey is considered between Guru Purnima and Shravan Purnima or Raksha Bandan that signals the end.
The cave is situated about 141 km from Srinagar, the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir union territory, with Pahalgam town being the nearest staging point. The annual Amarnath yatra is an important part to play in Hindu culture. Every year ‘Amarnath Yatra’ starts by ‘Pratham Pujan’ which is said to summon blessings of Baba Amarnath.
Shiva Linga or Ice Linga
The Shiva Linga made naturally from ice resembles a Lingam. Inside the 40 m (130 ft) high Amarnath Cave Temple, a stalagmite drops freezing water from the roof of the cave onto the floor and it grow upward vertically from the cave floor to touch the roof. It is mentioned in ancient Hindu texts of Mahabharata and Puranas that Lingam represents Lord Shiva. The shiva lingam forms during May to August, as snow melts in the Himalayan mountains above the cave, and the water seeps into the rocks to the cave roof creating the ice lingam gradually. It is said that the lingam grows and shrinks with the phases of the moon, reaching its height during the summer, though there is no scientific evidence to prove it.
Legend
Legend says, the Amarnath Cave is where eternal god Shiva narrated ‘Amar Katha’ to goddess Parvati and wanted to keep it a secret. So he left all his companions behind, even Nandi, the bull – was left at Pahalgam, the moon atop his head at Chandanwari. Not just that, Shiva left the snake around his neck at Lake Sheshnag, the 5 basic essentials of life including earth, water, air, fire, and space; he always carried at Panchtarini, and even his son Lord Ganesha at Mahaguna top.
After they entered the cave, Shiva became the ice lingam and Parvati became the yoni of rock. Then Shiva narrated the secret of life and eternity to his divine consort Parvati. But when Shiva finished the narration, he realized that Parvati had actually fallen asleep and a parrot was listening all this while. This infuriated Shiva and he threw his Trishul to kill the parrot. To save himself, the parrot entered the womb of a saint’s wife. The baby later born became a famous sage.
Another legend says that, in the 11th century AD, Queen Suryamati gifted trishulas, banalingas and other sacred emblems to this temple. Rajavalipataka contains detailed references to the pilgrimage to Amarnath Cave Temple. In addition, there are further references to this pilgrimage in many other ancient texts.
According to another legend, Sage Bhrigu first discovered Amarnath when the Kashmir valley was submerged underwater, and Sage Kashyapa drained it through a series of rivers and rivulets. When the waters drained, Bhrigu had the first darshan of Lord Shiva at Amarnath. As people heard of the lingam, it became an abode of Lord Shiva for all believers and the site of annual pilgrimage. Another legend says the local gadaria community were the first to discover the Amarnath Cave and saw the first glimpse of Lord Shiva. Reportedly François Bernier, a French physician, who accompanied Emperor Aurangzeb during his visit to Kashmir in 1663, wrote in his book ‘Travels in Mughal Empire’, about “pursuing journey to a grotto full of wonderful congelations, two days journey from Sangsafed” when he “received intelligence that my Nawab felt very impatient and uneasy on account of my long absence.” The “grotto” referenced is the Amarnath cave.
Amarnath Valley
The peak pilgrimage occurs when the iced stalagmite Shiva Lingam reaches its zenith in the summer months. In July–August the annual Hindu pilgrimage/yatra, undertaken by up to 600,000 pilgrim begins with a 43 kilometres (27 mi) mountainous trek from the Nunwan and Chandanwari base camps at Pahalgam and reaches cave-shrine after night halts at Sheshnag Lake and Panchtarni camps. Amarnath yatra is both a way of earning revenue by the state government by imposing tax on pilgrims, and earning a living by the local Shia Muslim Bakarwal-Gujjars tribes who take a portion of revenue and offer services to the Hindu pilgrims. However, the ongoing militancy has affected this source of income and militant groups have harassed and attacked the yatra numerous times.
The last time Amarnath pilgrimage was suspended was in July 2016 due to the Kashmir unrest. Then Kalbe Jawad, a Shia cleric and general secretary of Majlis-e-Ulama-e-Hind and Sufi Cleric Syed Hasnain Baqai expressed concern that the tradition had been suspended because of upheaval in Kashmir and demanded resumption of the Yatra. In the past several pilgrims were killed in militancy/terrorism related acts but pilgrims still throng to the cave in large number. In 2019 it was again suspended due to state reorganization that created the union territories of Ladakh and Jammu and Kashmir; but in 2020, 2021 it was suspended due to COVID19. Though many pilgrims have died due to inclement weather and inability to cope with the stress of journey.
The Yatra Precaution
As a precaution nowadays the maximum number of devotees allowed to make the per day is 15000, 7500 each on two decided routes. As an added precaution only pilgrims between the age limit of 14 to 74 years who are physically fit are allowed to make the journey. Even ladies more than 6 weeks pregnant are not allowed.. Pilgrims must carry snacks like biscuit, canned food, dry fruits, chocolate, roasted chana, etc. As well as warm clothing, lime sweater, coat, cap, muffler to keep themselves warm.
Amarnath Yatra Routes
There are two routes to proceed towards Amarnath Yatra, that pilgrims can take. Both these routes are well connected with all major cities of the union territory of Jammu and Kashmir for easy connectivity. There is a bus service from Jammu to Pahalgam and Baltal, where pilgrims can arrange for coolies or ponies to carry their food and clothes etc. Private taxis are also available. The two routes to Amarnath Yatra are:
- Baltal to Amarnath Cave
The most popular and shortest route to reach the cave is from Baltal, which is just 16 km from the cave temple and allows people to only trek. Ponies are not allowed on this route. However, one can be carried on ‘Dandies’. The shorter northern route has a very steep gradient and is quite difficult to climb. It starts from Baltal and passes through Domel, Barari, and Sangam to reach the cave. The trek via Baltal usually takes 1-2 days to complete. This route is usually taken by the people who are young, healthy and looking for some adventure amidst the religious trip. The route is along the Amarnath valley and all along the route one can see Amaravati river, a tributary of Chenab that originates from Amarnath Glacier.
- Pahalgam to Amarnath Cave
This is the most preferable but longer route and is around 47 km from the cave temple. The first leg of yatra starts at Chandanwari which is 16 km from Pahalgam base camp and is at a height of 9,500 feet. The next leg of yatra is to Pissu top, which is 3 km away and located at a height of 11,000 ft. The third leg of the yatra is till Shesnag which is 9 km from Pissu top at 11,730 ft. The next leg of yatra is till Panjtarni, which is 12 km away and located at a height of 12,000 feet. Panjtarni is just 6 kms away from the cave temple. Pilgrims have to trek from here for 2 hours to reach Amarnath cave temple but with many pilgrims present, the walk can take up to 4 hours. The entire one-way trek usually takes anywhere between 3-5 days to complete. Pilgrims who are unable to walk this distance can opt for Helicopter services that are easily available. Helicopter facilities from base camp to Panjtarni are provided by various private operators.
Registration for Amarnath Yatra
It is important for pilgrims to register for Amarnath Yatra, and only permit holders are allowed to go on trek. Pilgrims are required to submit Application Form and Compulsory Health Certificate (CHC) issued by the Authorized Institutions / Doctors by SASB online. Certificate issued before/after a specified date is considered invalid.
Note: Application Form and Health Certificate are available free of cost at the various Registration Branch.
- Pilgrims planning to avail helicopter service for Amarnath Yatra need to obtain medical fitness certificate from a doctor authorized by SASB (Shri Amarnath Shrine Board), which certifies that pilgrim is physically fit for the tough journey.
- Pilgrims must keep any identity documents like Voter ID, Driving License, and Passport etc during the yatra for identity check at any point.
- All pilgrims wanting to go on yatra must register at http://www.shriamarnathjishrine.com/ only. The registration fees is INR 100 per yatri/per permit. One yatra permit is valid for registering one yatri/pilgrim only.
- Pilgrims can make online helicopter bookings in advance for convenience. helicopter services are available from Baltal helipad and Pahalgam helipad. Helicopter timings are according to service providers and should be strictly adhered to by all pilgrims.
- The Registration of Amarnath Yatris and issue of the Yatri Permit are done by designated bank branches on a prescribed date on first come first serve basis. Each designated bank branch is allotted a fixed per day/per route quota for registering yatris.
- Yatri must specify their trek route, either the Chandanwari route or the Baltal Route. The permit bear the name of the route.
- To apply for the Yatri Permit, pilgrims have to submit following documents to Registration Officer:
- Filled in application form
- Prescribed Compulsory Health Certificate (CHC) issued on or after the specified date by authorized medical institution.
- 4 passport size photographs.
Weather
The pilgrims need to keep themselves updated with the climate in Amarnath that fluctuates frequently. The weather in Amarnath, depends on the temperature that ranges between 9-34 degrees during the yatra. The highly unpredictable weather of the mountains can be a problem can pilgrims may fall sick.
Facilities at Shri Amarnath Yatra
Pilgrims are provided best possible facilities with combined efforts of the SASB, Indian Army, Central Government and State Government Police Forces, NGOs and state government departments. Stalls and resting camps (pandals) with a continuous supply of food have been erected at multiple places. SASB provides facilities like power supply, telecommunication, firewood etc. Near the cave, hundreds of tents are erected by locals that can be hired for a night’s stay, where free community kitchen food is provided to the pilgrims.
Camps with prefabricated huts are also available for overnight stay at Baltal, Nunwan, Sheshnag and Panjtarni. These camps are arranged by SASB through private contractors and cost around INR 250-375 per night. Private Tents and huts are also set up at multiple places on the Amarnath Yatra route. Accommodation available on floor and cot along with quilts, mattress, blankets and pillows for INR 250-1000 per night.
Ration for those pilgrims who want to cook their own food is available from specially established Govt. Depots at Chandanwari, Sheshnag and Panjtarni at fair prices. Tea-stall and small makeshift restaurants are available at various locations.
Medical facilities are available for yatris en route to the shrine. Several Medical Aid Center(MAC), Emergency Aid Center (EAC) and base hospitals are set at different points along the route. Cloakroom to store belongings is provided by SASB at Nunwan, Baltal and Amarnath Cave at INR 10 for 24 hours.
Parking facility is available at Baltal base camp for Two Wheelers (INR 30), LMVs (INR 75) and MMVs (INR 150-225). BSNL connectivity is available on the yatra route. Pre-paid yatra sims are provided by BSNL to the yatris for INR 230 only.
Horses and ponys operated by local muslims are also available in Amarnath Yatra. Local muslims also provide shelter facility to the Hindu pilgrims during the Yatra.
Security at Shri Amarnath Yatra
Due to the volatile security situation in the Kashmir valley, every year, thousands of central armed forces and state police personnel are deployed to provide security to pilgrims from potential terror threats. The security forces position at various halts and also in the perimeter of the shrine.
Environmental Impact
Environmentalists have expressed concern that the large number of people participating in the Amarnath Yatra is having a negative impact on the area’s ecology. However, no studies have been made nor has an environmental impact assessment done. Most support government regulated limits on the number of pilgrims permitted to make the trek. Till date government of India restricts pilgrims travellers only on the basis on logistics, time window for yatra and weather conditions.
Shri Amarnathji Shrine Board (SASB)
The shrine is managed by Shri Amarnathji Shrine Board (SASB), that was constituted by an Act of the Jammu & Kashmir State Legislature in 2000 with the Governor of Jammu and Kashmir as its ex-officio Chairman assisted by Chief Executive Officer who is a senior IAS officer and eight other distinguished Board Members. SASB is responsible for providing all facilities to pilgrims, better management of entire yatra, upgrading facilities for pilgrims and all other matters. SASB is responsible for :-
- arranging proper worship at the shrine.
- safe custody of funds, valuable and jewelry and for preservation of the Board Fund.
- undertaking developmental activities concerning the areas near the shrine and its surrounding areas.
- paying suitable emoluments to the salaried staff.
- making suitable arrangements for imparting religious instruction and general education to pilgrims.
- construction of buildings for accommodation for pilgrims.
- construction of sanitary works.
- improvement of means of communication.
- providing medical relief for unwell worshippers and pilgrims.
- making changes wherever needed for efficient management, maintenance and administration of the Holy Shrine and for convenience of the pilgrims.
The Amarnath Yatra is considered a once in a lifetime achievement for anyone who completes the arduous journey.
