Bada Bagh, also called Barabagh or “grand garden” is a garden complex located about 6 kms north of Jaisalmer in Rajasthan. Ground work for Barabagh was started by Maharaja Maharawal Jait Singh II, a descendant of Maharawal Jaisal Singh, the founder of Jaisalmer State, in 16th century when he built a dam to create a water storage tank to make the desert green in this area.
His actions bore fruit, and soon the land was thriving with countless mangoes, date palms and other fruits, as such the name Bada Bagh was given to area. After Jait Singh II’s death, his son Lunkaran built a beautiful garden, in the immediate neighbourhood of the water storage tank and also built a memorial chhatri or cenotaph in memory of hill father on a hill overlooking the lake.
Later on, many more royal cenotaphs were constructed for the Bhatti Rajput dynasty, or Maharajas of Jaisalmer State at the spot in 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries after their deaths. The last royal chhatri, meant for Maharaja Maharawal Jawahar Singh, who was the last king before India’s independence remains unfinished. This is the cenotaph that greets tourists to Bada Bagh. Bada Bagh, is located equidistant from Jaisalmer and Lodhruva. Bada Bagh once known for lush green gardens, is today known for its memorial chhatris or cenotaphs carved out of solid sandstone blocks.
These cenotaphs are known for their 4 distinct sizes. The largest ones for the ruling kings, smaller ones for their queens, still smaller one for the princes, and the smallest ones for other royal family members. All cenotaphs have a beautifully carved ceiling. On the top of each chhatri or cenotaph there is a marble slab with inscriptions about the deceased royal and a symbolic image of a man on a horse. Known for its incredible views of sunrise and sunset; Bada Bagh complex, is dominated by Jait Bandh, the dam. Next to Bada Bagh is the Bhaironji Temple, which is often visited by childless women who offer silver girdles to the deity hoping for a child. Bada Bagh is located not too far from Jaisalmer Fort. Most of the chhatris in every generation have been built in 2 rows.
The idea of constructing chhatris or cenotaphs began somewhere around the 17th century and lasted until the 20th century till 1947 independence of India. This was done due to sad demise of new ruler, Maharaja Maharawal Girdhar Singh who passed away in the first year of his rule after suffering from a mysterious disease. His death was considered as a reflection of lousy omen amongst royals hence, they discontinued the tradition. Every single chhatri at Bada Bagh has been built in such a way that each one reflects the power quotient of the ruler to which it was associated. Meaning, the more powerful a king during his reign, taller his chhatri would stand.
Every chhatri known for exquisite carvings tells a story, pyramid dome chhatri were made by Muslim sculptors, while round dome chhatri were created by Hindus. The base of all chhatris is either square or hexagonal. Even today none of the stones on any cenotaph, even tiniest carvings, have changed colour. They are all uniform in colour giving a sense of rhythm in the garden. There are numerous places worth visiting near Bada Bagh. These include Khuri Sand Dunes, Desert National Park, Lodurva Jain Temple, Jaisalmer Fort and City, and Patwon ki Havel. One of the top tourist attractions in Jaisalmer region, the best time to visit Bada Bagh is between October to March as the temperatures are very cool during this period.
A photographers’ paradise, Bada Bagh, perched atop a hill, offers breath-taking views of the horizon and expanding desert. Open from 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM daily, entry fee for Indian tourists is INR 20 – 50, foreign tourists is INR 50 – 100. Tourist carrying camera have to pay INR 20 – 100 for still camera and INR 50 – 150 for video camera. The tourists need to wear light coloured cloths, sunglasses and apply lots of sunscreen to avoid scorching heat of the sun. A visit to Bada Bagh truly leaves all visitors spellbound.
