Gurudwara Kartarpur Sahib – A Revered Pilgrimage Site for Sikhs in Pakistan

The Gurdwara

Darbar Sahib Kartarpur, also called Kartarpur Sahib, is a gurdwara in Kartarpur located in Shakargarh, Narowal district, in Punjab province of Pakistan. The historic gurudwara is bult on the spot, where Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism, settled after his travels to Haridwar, Mecca, Medina, Lanka, Baghdad, Kashmir and Nepal and did farming for 18 years until his death in 1539.

Gurudwara is the largest gurdwara in the world, and is one of the holiest sites in Sikhism, alongside the Golden Temple in Amritsar in India and Gurdwara Janam Asthan in Nankana Sahib also in Pakistan. The gurdwara is located near the border between Pakistan and India at a distance of 4.5 kms from the Indian side of the border. Indian Sikhs used to gather in large numbers to perform darshan from across the border.

The Kartarpur Corridor was opened by Pakistani Prime Minister Imran Khan on 9 November 2019, just days before the 550th birth anniversary of Guru Nanak.  The gurudwara has become a place for reuniting families separated on both sides of the border during after 1947. The opening of Kartarpur Corridor allowed Indian Sikh pilgrims to officially visit the gurudwara with visa-free access into Pakistan.  The opening of corridor has made the gurudwara a top tourist attraction for people of India.

The gurdwara was shut from 1947 to 2003 with no staff, despite receiving pilgrims, and entrance was restricted. It served as cattle shed for the local villagers and its lands were taken over by share-croppers. Since 2003, the Pakistani government took initiatives for the upkeep of Sikh religious shrines and formally reopened it in September 2004.

History

Guru Nanak founded Kartarpur town on eastern bank of Ravi River in 1504, where besides farming he set up a community kitchen, or langar and assembled a large Sikh community there. Guru Nanak gave the three principles of Kirat Karo, Naam Japo, Wand Chako, which means work hard for a livelihood, keep remembering the God and share your bounties with the world at this place. Guru Nanak who believed in equality, peace, harmony and universal brotherhood between castes, religions, and genders gave the word ‘Ik Onkar’ at this place, which means there is only ‘One God’.

The gurudwara reportedly houses the last copies of the original Guru Granth Sahib. The main building of gurudwara was built in 1925 with donation from Maharaja Bhupindar Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala. It was repaired by Government of Pakistan in 1995, and fully restored in 2004. The gurdwara was further expanded in November 2018 with construction of courtyard, museum, library, dormitories and locker rooms spread across an area of 42 acres. There is a 20-foot well, made of small red bricks which is 500 years old and believed to have been built during the lifetime of Guru Nanak Dev ji.

After the 1947 Partition of India, when unified India was divided into India and Pakistan, the dividing Radcliffe Line awarded Shakargarh tehsil on the right bank of Ravi River, including Kartarpur, to Pakistan, and Gurdaspur tehsil on the left bank of Ravi to India. In 1948, Akali Dal wanted that India acquire the gurdwaras in Nankana Sahib and Kartarpur.

Visa-Free Access

A visa-free access to Kartarpur Sahib gurudwara was demanded by Sikhs since 1947.  It was floated again by then Prime Minister of India, Atal Bihari Vajpayee during his visit to Lahore in 1999, while Pakistani president Pervez Musharraf approved the idea in 2000 by constructing a bridge from the border to the shrine.

Government of Pakistan in September 2018, unilaterally decided to open the corridor before the 550th birth anniversary of Guru Nanak for visa-free entry of 5000 Indians per day into Pakistan. Few days later Government of India also approved Kartarpur corridor from Dera Baba Nanak in Gurdaspur district. Termed as “Corridor of Peace” it was welcomed by Sikhs from across the world. Opened on 9 November 2019, first Jatha (batch) of more than 550 pilgrims traveled with Prime Minister Narendra Modi flagging off the pilgrimage headed by Akal Takht Jathedar Giani Harpreet Singh.

On Pakistan side, Imran Khan received the pilgrims and formally inaugurated the Kartarpur corridor by removing a curtain that was lifted by hot air balloons to reveal a huge Kirpan (dagger). Poetry about Guru Nanak, from Muhammad Iqbal’s Bang-e-Dara was read by former Indian prime minister Dr. Manmohan Singh and also by Pakistani speakers at inauguration. The Pakistan government as a “special gesture” had also waived off the passport requirement for Kartarpur pilgrims. However, Indian government decided that passport would be required per the agreement between the two countries at that time.

Kartarpur Corridor

In November 2018, foundation stones for the corridor were laid on both sides of the border by Pakistan Prime Minister Imran Khan and Indian Vice President Venkaiah Naidu respectively. Kartarpur Corridor connects Gurdwara Darbar Sahib in Pakistan to Gurudwara Dera Baba Nanak with India. It allows devotees from India to visit the gurdwara on the Pakistani side without a visa. However, Pakistani Sikhs are unable to use the border crossing, and cannot access Dera Baba Nanak on the Indian side without first obtaining an Indian visa or unless they work there.

Previously, Sikh pilgrims from India had to take a bus to Lahore to get to Kartarpur, which is a 125 kilometres journey, even though people on the Indian side could also physically see Gurdwara Darbar Sahib Kartarpur from an elevated observation platform. Indian Sikhs could visit Kartarpur informally by crossing the Jassar bridge on the Ravi River until 1965 when the bridge was destroyed by Pakistani forces in Indo-Pakistan war of 1965. In 1969, on the occasion of 500th anniversary of the birth of Guru Nanak, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi had promised to approach Pakistani government for a land-swap so that Kartarpur Sahib could become part of India. However, in September 1974, a protocol was agreed between India and Pakistan for visits to religious shrines.

Around 2005, the protocol was updated by increasing the number of visits and the number of sites. However, Kartarpur was never included in the 1974 protocol.  In August 2019, India and Pakistan agreed to allow visa-free travel of Indian citizens to Kartarpur. On 24 October 2019, officials from both sides met at Zero Point near Dera Baba Nanak to sign MOU that paved the way for 5,000 Indian pilgrims to visit Kartarpur without a visa on a daily basis. Under the MOU, the pilgrims would come in the morning and return in the evening.

Each visitor is required to pay USD $20 as service charge. India however, had urged Pakistan to waive off the fees for pilgrims. In response, on 1 November 2019, Pakistan’s prime minister Imran Khan announced that Sikh pilgrims coming from India for a pilgrimage to Kartarpur will not be charged any fee on day of inauguration and on Guru Nanak’s 550th birth anniversary on 12 November 2019. The corridor has been described as Guru Nanak’s legacy project depicting his way of living life.

Registration Process & Questions

For a visa free travel through Kartarpur corridor an Electronic Travel Authority document known as ETA is required, which can be obtained by registering an application at online website of Indian Government. Important conditions of travel include:

• Only Indians resident or overseas citizens can travel by corridor, Pakistanis cannot.
• Children or aged persons of all ages can register to apply.
• After 15 days of travel by corridor another registration can be done for second visit.
• Registration can only be done online at above mentioned website of Indian Government.

 What documents are required for applying?

• Valid Indian Passport or OCI
• Your blood type
• Name of your local police station (if Indian)
• Scanned copy of passport size photograph (in JPG format not exceeding 300 kb in size).
• Scanned copy of Passport (containing photo & personal particulars) and last page containing family details in format only not exceeding 500 kb in size.
• Scanned Copy of first page of OCI Card in format only not exceeding 500 kb in size.

What are the other formalities after uploading form?

A police verification. A police team of the relevant city will reach the applicant’s address and get copies of these documents soon after the applicant submits the form. The applicant will also be asked to sign a statement that he/she wants to go to Pakistan only to pay obeisance at Kartarpur Sahib gurdwara.

When will the applicant know he/she has got approval?

Four days prior to the date of the journey, the applicant will get a SMS on his/her registered mobile number with a registration number. The number along with passport details will be needed to download an Electronic Travel Approval (ETA). A print out of ETA will be required for the journey.

Is a passport needed to travel?

No, the passport will not be required.

Website to register for visiting Kartarpur and steps?

• For pilgrimage to kartarpur sahib please visit the website, https://prakashpurb550.mha.gov.in & log in.
• Click on ‘Apply Online’, select your nationality and date of journey.
• Press ‘Continue’ to proceed. The website show the dates on which slots are available.
• Select the day you want to visit Kartarpur as per availability. Part A of Kartarpur Corridor registration form appears on the screen, fill it and click on ‘Save & Continue’.
• Do the same for other parts also. You can check registration status on the same portal by entering registration number, passport number and date of birth.

Will the passport be stamped by Pakistan immigration?

• They do not stamp the passport.
• They issue a green and yellow coloured permit as soon as one reaches their immigration terminal. They stamp that permit.
• The stamped part of the permit is to be returned to them once the pilgrim reach their immigration terminal after finishing the journey.
• The Indian side of immigration terminal will stamp the ETA.
• The stamped ETA will have to be returned to Indian side after completion of the journey.

Where does one cross over?

• Pilgrims have to reach Dera Baba Nanak in Gurdaspur Passenger Terminal Building (PTB.
• Pilgrims will have to report to immigration kiosks with the documents.
• Pilgrims are asked to report at the PTB not later than 10 am. They are required to report back at PTB before 5 pm the same day.
• It is advisable to reach Amritsar a day prior to the journey. There are no place for stay at Dera Baba Nanak yet.

How many pilgrims are allowed per day? Where can they visit in Pakistan?

5,000 pilgrims on a normal day and 10,000 pilgrims on special days like Gurpurab. Pilgrims are allowed only to pay obeisance at Gurdwara Darbar Sahib. They cannot go anywhere else.

What after clearing the immigration desk?

Pilgrims are taken in e-rickshaws till international border. After crossing Pakistan gate, they are taken to their immigration terminal in e-rickshaws and shuttles.

What can pilgrim take along?

A bag not more than 7 kg and a water bottle. Indian currency upto Rs 11,000 is allowed per pilgrim. At Pakistan immigration terminal, pilgrims can exchange currency upto 1600 INR.