Hemis National Park is a high-altitude national park in Ladakh, India; famous for its snow leopards. The park is believed to have the highest density of snow leopards, in any protected area in the world. It is the only national park in India that is north of the Himalayas, with the largest notified protected area in India making it the largest national park and the second largest contiguous protected area, after the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve and surrounding protected areas. The Khuma, Rumbak, and Markha rivers run throughout the park along with the Ladakh Range, which is considered to be an extension of the Karakoram, which themselves are considered to be extensions of the Himalaya. The park’s eastern and northern boundaries are marked by the Indus River while the western boundary is set by the Zanskar River.
Besides snow leopard, the park is home to a number of species of endangered mammals. Hemis National Park is India’s protected area inside the Palearctic realm, outside the Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary northeast of Hemis, and the proposed Tso Lhamo Cold Desert Conservation Area in North Sikkim. The park is bound on the north by the banks of the Indus River, and includes the catchments of Markha, Sumdah and Rumbak, and parts of the Zanskar Range.
The park was founded in 1981 by merging the Rumbak and Markha catchments for a area of about 600 km2. It was extended in 1988 to 3,350 km2 by incorporating neighbouring lands and in 1990 was further expanded to 4,400 km2. The park lies within the Karakoram-West Tibetan Plateau alpine steppe ecoregion, and contains pine forests, alpine shrublands and meadows, and alpine tundra vegetation. The park is home to a viable breeding population of around 200 snow leopards, especially in the Rumbak catchment area. The prey base for snow leopards is primarily supported in Hemis by Argali (Great Tibetan Sheep), Bharal (Blue Sheep), Shapu (Ladakhi Urial), and livestock are available in ample numbers. A small population of the Asiatic ibex is also present in the park. The park is the only refuge in India containing the Shapu. Himalayan marmot, mountain weasel and the Himalayan mouse are also found.
Besides the snow leopards, other predators like Tibetan wolf, Eurasian brown bear (endangered in India), and the red fox are also found here. Among birds of prey, the golden eagle, lammergeier vulture, and Himalayan griffon vulture are found here. The Rumbak Valley is a birdwatcher’s paradise, and is home to bird species not found in other parts of India. Birds present here include brown accentor, robin accentor, Tickell’s leaf warbler, streaked rosefinch, black-winged snowfinch, chukar, Blyth’s swift, red-billed chough, Himalayan snowcock, and the fire-fronted serin.
The national park is also known for its scenic beauty. Lofty mountains and alpine forests of juniper and subalpine dry birch make it a treat for the eyes. As this region is in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, the park does not receive much precipitation and such it is filled with dry forests of juniper, Populus – Salix forests, subalpine dry birch, Alpine and steppe trees are predominantly found here. The upper area of the park is full of alpine vegetation while other parts of the park support steppe vegetation. The park is home to 15 rare and endangered medicinal plants.
The park has become popular among tourists and wildlife enthusiasts who want to observe the elusive snow leopard in the wild and click its photographs. Snow leopards’ generally prey on livestock, sometimes killing several animals from a single flock in one hunt from m the animals kept by pastoralists who raise poultry, goats, and sheep resulting in considerable animal-human conflict. Overgrazing of livestock and crop damage caused by bharal goats also impact vegetation. The best season for spotting snow leopards is in late winter. The best way to see this place is by jeep safaris and the best time to visit is from May to October.
The government is trying to improve biodiversity and rural livelihood in Ladakh, including for those living in the Hemis National Park. No hotels are available in or near Hemis National Park. There are six villages, and gompas (monasteries) inside the national park where tourists can stay in homes as homestay. Homestays allows tourists to access local villagers’ residences to stay providing them additional income. Government is also providing Nature Guide Training to the educated unemployed youth around the park. Eco Cafe for the women Help Group to run the cafe and sell the local handicraft products to the tourist.
The park is a great option for adventure seekers who can try trekking across the park. There are a number of trekking routes open from mid-June to mid-October in the park. This includes the Markha valley trek and the trek from Spituk to Stok over the Ganda La pass. Ganda La pass, which lies within the Hemis National Park and also called the Kanda La, is a high mountain pass at 4980 metres above sea level, 23 kms south-west of Leh and connects the Markha valley villages to Leh. It is actually 2 passe; the summer pass is open from June, and the winter pass that is half kilometre north-west of summer pass is open from late April. The other pass on the trek route is the Gongmaru La or Kongmaru La pass.
The Markha Valley trek crosses the pass on the section between Rumbak and Skiu villages, which is usually done over 2 days. Besides the snow leopards, the park is also famed for historic 400-year-old Hemis Monastery where the annual Hemis Festival also called Hemis Tsechu is held every summer. Celebrated over a course of 2 days, the festival is marked by the unfurling of thangkas (Buddhist paintings) and chhams or masked dances performed by monks. One of the richest monasteries in Ladakh, it is situated about 45 kilometers from Leh.
Hemis National Park is also famous for mountaineering expeditions. The Stok Kangri peak at 6,153 metres and the Kang Yatse peak are the two mountains which attract large number of mountain climbers every year. Access to the park is not easy. There is no metalled road in Hemis National Park just a few rough roads that enable local people to reach their villages. There is a rough road connecting Chilling bridge to Skiu village in the Markha valley and another one connecting Spituk to Zingchen and Rumbak village. On Hemis side, there is a road connecting Martselang to Shang Sumdo. The Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport of Leh provides the only airlink while Kalka, Haryana provides nearest rail link. However, Leh-Manali Highway, and Srinagar – Kargil – Leh Highway provides road access when they are open with city of Leh which is just 10 kms away being the base.
In order to protect the national park and its tourism-related activities vehicle access to the park has been regulated since 2019 with checkpost set up at each entrance at Chilling, at Zingchen and at Shang Sumdo. Beyond these checkposts, only motorized vehicles used by villagers who live inside the park are allowed. Tourists are not allowed to use motorized vehicles inside the park. Tourists also need to pay wildlife fee when entering the park set at INR 20 per person for Indians; however, foreigners have to pay INR 100. Additionally, Hemis National Park is surrounded by other popular outdoor recreation areas. The Karakoram (Nubra Shyok) Wildlife Sanctuary lies to the north, Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary to the east, Kishtwar National Park and Thajwas- Baltal Wildlife Sanctuary to the west and the Sech Tuan Nala Wildlife Sanctuary to the southwest.
Essential travel tips for Hemis National Park are:-
- The Hemis National Park is open on all days of the week.
- The food here is edible, but tourists are advised to bring packaged food with them as one can find it hard to adapt to the tastes and flavors of the mountain villages.
- Important to bring a first aid kit with all the medications you might need on your travel as they might not be available here.
- No vehicles are allowed inside the park.
- Solo treks are fun, but they should be avoided at night as this national park is full of wild animals that come to prey in the dark. Even in the day, the guided tour is best.
- Always keep a Hemis National Park map with you at all times.
