Devi and Nani Mandir, is a revered Hindu temple in Hinglaj, a town on the Makran coast in the Lasbela district of Balochistan. Located in the middle of Hingol National Park, it is one of the 51 Shakti Peethas in Shaktism denomination of Hinduism. It is one of the three Shakti Peethas in Pakistan, other two being Shivaharkaray and Sharada Peeth.
Significance
The temple is located in a mountain cavern on the banks of the Hingol River. Over the last three decades, the shrine has gained popularity for Pakistan’s many Hindu communities, and the annual Hinglaj Yatra is the largest Hindu pilgrimage in Pakistan in which over 250,000 people take part during the spring. The shrine is inside a small natural cave with a low mud altar. There is no man-made image of the goddess. A small stone smeared with sindoor (vermilion), is worshipped as divine form of Hinglaj Mata which possibly gives the location its Sanskrit name Hingula, which is the root of the present-day name Hinglaj.
Hinglaj Mata is considered very powerful deity. While Hinglaj is her main temple, temples dedicated to her exist in the Indian states Gujarat and Rajasthan as well. The legend of Hinglaj Mata temple relates to the creation of the 51 Shakti Peethas across Indian subcontinent. Sati, daughter of Prajapati Daksha, married god Shiva against his wishes. Daksha organized a great yajna but did not invite Sati and Shiva. Uninvited, Sati reached the yajna-site, where Daksha ignored Sati and vilified Shiva. Unable to withstand this insult, Sati immolated herself. Sati died, but her corpse did not burn. Shiva killed Daksha holding him responsible for Sati’s death but later forgave and resurrected him. The wild, grief-stricken Shiva wandered the universe carrying Sati’s corpse.
Then god Vishnu dismembered Sati’s body into 108 parts, of which 52 fell on earth and others on other planets in the universe which became known as Shakti Peethas, temple to a form of the Goddess. The head of Sati is believed to have fallen at Hinglaj. Shiva is also worshiped at each Shakti Pitha in the form of Bhairava, the male counterpart of the presiding goddess of the Peetha. The shrine is surrounded by other places of worship such as Ganesh Deva, Mata Kali, Gurugorakh Nath Dooni, Braham Kudh, Tir Kundh, Gurunanak Kharao, Ramjarokha Bethak, Aneel Kundh On Chorasi Mountain, Chandra Goop, Khaririver and Aghore Pooja.
Veneration
It is said that Lord Ram after killing Ravan also visited the temple to pay respects. The Brahmakshatriya community and Charan community also known as Gadhvi venerate Hinglaj Mata as their family deity. Amba Bhavani or Jagadamba is considered as one of the later incarnations of Hinglaj Devi by the same communities who also worship her mostly in Western India.
The local Muslims, particularly the Zikri Muslims also hold Hinglaj Mata in reverence and provide security to the shrine. They call the temple the “Nani Mandir”. Local Muslim tribes along with Hindus make pilgrimage to the Hinglaj Mata shrine and some call the pilgrimage as the “Nani Ki Haj”. Sufi Muslims also revere Hinglaj Mata. The Sufi saint Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai had visited the Hinglaj Mata temple and it is mentioned in his poetry. The Sur Ramkali was composed by Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai in reverence to the Hinglaj Mata and the visiting jogis. A legend says that the Shah Abdul Latin Bhittai took on the arduous journey to visit the Hinglaj Mata Mandir to pay tribute to the Hinglaj Mata and offered milk to the Hinglaj Mata. It is also believed that after he offered the milk, the Hinglaj Mata appeared in front of him.
Location
The cave temple of Hinglaj Mata is located in the middle of Hingol National Park, in a narrow gorge in the remote, hilly area of Lyari Tehsil in Balochistan, 19 km inland from the Arabian Sea and 130 km to the west of the mouth of the Indus. One has to go by road on the Karachi – Quetta highway till Zero Point for about 75 miles then to Lyari town till the Signal Fauji Camp Stop. From there one has to cross the Aghora river, then cross another river which is the Goongi river and then last stop at Asha Pura Sarai. The Hinglaj Mata shrine is at the end of a range of Kirthar Mountains, in the Makran desert stretch, on the west bank of Hingol River.
Hinglaj is 328 km and nearly 6-8 hours drive from Karachi on the Makran Coastal Highway. Historically few could make the taxing journey to Hinglaj—a grueling trek across more than 160 miles of isolated desert to the temple. But in recent years, new infrastructure setup has allowed a large number of pilgrims to the site. What was once a journey of more than 150 kilometres by foot through the desert, is now made easy by the Makran Coastal Highway connecting Karachi with Gwadar.
Annual pilgrimage or Hinglaj Yatra
Pilgrims visit Hinglaj mata in a yatra called Hing;aj yatra. They ae required to complete a series of rituals, like climbing the Chandragup and Khandewari mud volcanoes to throw coconuts into the craters to make wishes and thank gods for answering their prayers. Some scatter rose petals, others paint their bodies and faces with clay. Pilgrims then take a ritual bath in the sacred Hingol River before finally approaching the shrine marking the goddess’s resting place.
The annual four-day pilgrimage to the Hinglaj Mata Temple is held in April. The major ceremony in the pilgrimage occurs on the third day. Offerings made by the pilgrims to the deity primarily consist of three coconuts. While some remain in Hinglaj for all four days, others make a 1-day trip. Pilgrimage traditionally begins from the Nanad Panthi Akhada in Karachi. The pilgrim are headed by a holy staff bearer called the chaadiar, authorized by the Akhada.
Pilgrims from all over Pakistan and even India visit the temple. Consequently, the number of pilgrims visiting the shrine has substantially increased over the years. While most pilgrims come by buses or private cars, a few cycle or walk their way to the shrine, as it is believed that more the austerities, the more is the grace of the deity.
After partition of India and Pakistan in 1947, Pakistan Pakistan saw huge in population of Hindus who migrated to India. Those Hindus, who remained are mostly concentrated in Tharparkar District district of Sindh Province. They form the largest contingent of pilgrims to Hinglaj Mata Temple including merchants, government servants middle-class as well as lower working class hindus.
The pilgrimage serves as meeting point and doing community activity like gathering funds for construction of a Hindu temple. Hundreds of volunteers help in the smooth running of pilgrimage. Vast community kitchens are set up to cook food prepared with tonnes of food stuff such as wheat floor, rice, lentils, and vegetables donated by local people to feed the pilgrims 3 times a day during these 4 days. Temporary bathroom facilities and camps are installed to help pilgrims rest during the pilgrimage.
Other Sites
The mud volcano Chandragup is considered holy by Hindus and is an important stop for pilgrims on their way to the shrine of Hinglaj Mata. Devotees throw coconuts into the craters to make wishes and thank the gods for answering their prayers. The Chandragup mud volcano is worshipped as an embodiment of Lord Shiva and hence called Baba Chandragup. Many pilgrims believe that Hinglaj’s temple may only be entered only after paying homage to Baba Chandrakup.
Traditionally, the pilgrims stay awake all the night fasting and meditating. On the next day they ascend the slope of Chandrakup. Then they make roṭi s an offering to Baba Chandrakup. Nowadays, coconuts, betel nut and dal are also offered. At the top of the Volcano, the pilgrims first have to introduce themselves with their full name and place of origin and then call out their sins in front of the group. According to the bubbling of the mud and the reaction of the wind, the chaṛīdār is able to tell if the pilgrim’s sins are forgiven.
The Valley of Hinglaj is considered as holy as Hinglaj Mata temple herself and hence is considered sacred. This is the Swayambhu concept in Hinduism which implies a divine presence in natural manifestations such as particular landscapes or, on a smaller scale. Here the concept of svayaṃbhū not only relates to the major shrine but also can be linked to whole areas of the Hinglaj Valley, the area surrounding Chandragup volcano, or even the whole desert is considered the home of the Devi. The point at which the Hinglaj Valley begins is clearly marked by a wall built by the Hinglaj Sheva Mandali in 1996. Due to the divinity of the Goddess’s area, commercial activities including shops and teastalls are not allowed to be set up in the valley. A visit to Hinglaj Mata mandir is considered must for Hindus in Pakistan.
