The Village
Khichan or kheechan village in Phalodi tehsil of Jodhpur district, Rajasthan state of India, is a bird sanctuary known for a large number of demoiselle cranes that visit it every winter. A bird watchers paradise, this village became part of the annual bird migration route in the 1970s, when a local couple started feeding the cranes numbering around a hundred around the lake. Other villagers joined their efforts, and as of 2014, Khichan now hosts over 30,000 demoiselle cranes from as early as August each year to as late as March of the following year. Khichan Bird Sanctuary is popular world-wide as the Demoiselle Crane village.
Even professional ornithologists often visit this sanctuary to observe, learn and collect details of the birdlife here goes to show about the importance of the bird sanctuary. Khichan village is located 150 km west of Jodhpur city, the village is well connected by road with Bikaner, Nagaur and Jaisalmer also. The nearest town is Phalodi, which is 3.4 km away. Easiest way to reach here is from Phalodi railway station on the Delhi-Jaisalmer-Bikaner route that connects it to all important towns in Rajasthan. Jodhpur is the nearest airport (139 km). are also connected to the village. The Pakistan Border is about 100 km away.
Khichan Bird Sanctuary is a natural bird sanctuary that serves as home to three types of birds called Kurja, Karkara and Kunch in local language that migrate from South West Europe, Black Sea region, Poland, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, North and South Africa and Mongolia. These birds can be seen in large numbers at this bird sanctuary between August and March as they migrate to India as part of their migration route to avoid the cold winters of Europe. The appearance of these cranes is quite attractive.
Demoiselle Cranes & Khichan Village
In the early 1970, Ratanlal Maloo, a native of Khichan who had been working in Odisha, returned to the village. Since he did not have a lot of work, his uncle gave him the job of feeding pigeons. Being devout Jains, Ratanlal and his wife accepted the task. Ratanlal would carry grain sacks to the feeding place, and his wife would help him spread the grains on the ground. A number of pigeons, sparrows and squirrels started coming to the place; peacocks also occasionally visited the place. In September, a dozen demoiselle cranes (called kurja in Rajasthani) also joined the other birds. These birds had been seen visiting the farmlands of Khichan earlier.
They came to the notice of the locals only when the cranes, which was very few in number then, started feeding from the grain bowls the locals had kept for the pigeons. During September-February of that year, around 100 cranes came to the feeding place. During the next winter, around 150 cranes visited the place. These cranes are called Kurja, because it makes a typical ‘kur-kur’ sound. They weigh 4 to 6 kg and stand about three feet tall. These cranes are capable of flying long distances at speeds varying from 40-60 km per hour. As the cranes grew in numbers, the local dogs started hunting them. So, Ratan Lal asked the village panchayat to allot him some land on the outskirts of the village.
Some of the villagers joined him in building a chugga ghar (“bird feeding home”), with a granary and a fence. Several Jain traders supported the initiative by supplying grains. Since then, Kichan village has become part of the bird migration route with thousands of demoiselle cranes visiting the village year after year, during the period of August to March, and the number is reported to be increasing. This is attributed to the organised and natural feeding done by the village community, twice a day during the birds entire sojourn in the months of August to March, with November to February being the peak season.
In 2008, it was estimated that up to 3,000 kilograms of bird seed are consumed every day by the feeding birds. In 2010, the number of cranes visiting Kheechan was estimated at 15,000. Since then the village has become a favorite spot for bird watchers, to watch demoiselle cranes, and achieved international recognition when it was featured in Birding World magazine, in an article titled, “Khichan – the Demoiselle Crane village”. This has also made Khichan a favorite destination for tourists who love nature.
Everyday demoiselle cranes fly into specially created rectangular enclosures of 50x60m, at the edge of the village, called as chugga ghar’s, where they have a breakfast session which lasts for about 90 minutes. They are fed in groups, one after the other. Their flights, clicked from conventional mansions or havelis (heritage buildings) that have been converted to tourist lodges, present brilliant opportunity for bird photographers to click the cranes in flight. After feeding, the cranes, in large congregations, are seen at some of the water bodies (lakes) to the north of Khichan. Interested tourist besides photography can also participate in bird feeding.
The cranes fly in different directions in small family flocks, in a disciplined order led by the female, followed closely by two young ones with the male forming the rear guard. Again, during mid-day, they assemble for a drink, followed by an occasional bath, and a second feed. Acrobatic exhibition of mutual affection between couples is also seen. They roost in faraway agriculture fields and return to the same water bodies next day, early in the morning.
Currently, daily feed of the cranes, is managed by Pakshi Chuggha Ghar of A. B. Khichan Jain Shree Sangh. Donations for the feeding are made by locals and tourists alike. Organizations like Kuraj Samrakshan Vikas Sansthan, and Marwar Crane Foundation (MCF) supports the village’s efforts for crane protection and care. The best time to visit is from October to March. Even though the sanctuary is open all day, the visiting experience is the best during dawn and dusk. Entry to the sanctuary is completely free. It is open to the public on all days of the year.
Other Bird Species
Peafowl are the other dominant birds seen other than the demoiselle cranes. However, many other variety of migratory and local birds are also found in the bird Sanctuary. These include Desert Wheatear, Variable Wheater, Isabelline Wheatear, Ruff, Lesser Whitethroat, Crested Lark, Greater Short-toed Lark, Knob-billed Duck or Corr, Common Shelduck, and Northern Shoveler. As with other bird sanctuaries, various types of ‘birds of prey’ can also be found in the sanctuary, these include Laggar Falcon, Greater Spotted Eagle, Tawny Eagle, Steppe Eagle, and Long-legged Buzzard.
Other Places
- Phalodi Fort
Besides the Khichan Bird Sanctuary that attracts hordes of tourist during the birding season, the Khichan village in itself is worth visiting. A tour of the village with its magnificent havelis is a treat to watch as people admire the architecture of old buildings. The sand dunes around the village also offer great option for desert safari. The Manvar camp just outside the village offers a great place to stay on an extended weekend visit.
Beside the village at a distance of 7.5 kms, Phalodi Fort, is worth visiting. Phalodi Fort reflects the cultural richness of the blue city and speaks of the historic period of Jodhpur. The beautiful fort was built in 1488 by Rao Hammir Narawat, the grandson of Rao Suja Maharaja of Jodhpur. Located on Sadar Bazar Road, Phalodi Fort is 135 kms away from Jodhpur. The fort reflects the fine work of artists of Marwar of that era. Fort is renowned for its intricate architecture. People can relax inside the fort also as there are relaxing and refreshments available. The best time to visit the fort is between the months of October and. Phalodi Fort is open from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm and entry is free. Interested tourist can also visit Phalodi city, also called the “salt city” due to the concentration of a large number of salt making factories and see how salt is made.
- Lal Niwas
Lal Niwas in the village of Phalodi is one of the most sought-after heritage hotels in Rajasthan. This magnificent looking red sandstone structure was the mansion of rich merchants who were close to the royal family of Jodhpur. After being redesigned and renovated to a heritage hotel with all the modern facilities, now Lal Niwas being run by the pioneers of the hotel business, Welcome Heritage as a destination for nature lovers, birdwatchers, honeymooners and heritage travelers. It is located at a distance of 142 kms from Jodhpur.
Lal Niwas was built in 1750 as a haveli, with all the beauty and majestic looks that the Rajasthani architecture imparts to its structures. It is known for its royal-looking balconies, vast terraces overlooking the mighty Thar desert. Hand-carved doors are few of the architectural specialties of this place. Lush green gardens with small water fountains and an awesome view of Phalodi village as well as the bird sanctuary from the heritage hotel will light up the mood of the visitors. Lal Niwas multi-cuisine restaurant here serves some mouth-watering South Indian, Indian, Chinese, and Continental varieties of food. It offers one of the best taste of Rajasthani food including Besan Ki Chakki, Gal ke Laddoo, Dahi Vada, Bajre ke Roti, Missi Roti etc. The hotel has all amenities including well decorated and furnished rooms, a swimming pool and a bar.
- Dhadha Heritage Museum
There is a museum located here at Ll Niwas, known by the name Dhadha Heritage Museum which preserves manuscripts and books from 13th century. Collections of stamps and Ivories are also kept to display here. Phalodi is a good place to explore the rich culture and the folk arts of Rajasthan. the museum stores a lot of history about Phalodi town and Khichan village.
